How To Paint A Door?
QUICK ANSWER
Remove the door from hinges if possible (easier to paint flat). Clean with TSP or degreaser, lightly sand, prime any bare spots. Use a foam mini-roller for flat sections and angled brush for panels and details. Two coats minimum; let cure 24 hours between. Lay flat for best self-leveling finish.
Painting a door done right makes a dramatic visual difference; done poorly, drips and brush marks are obvious every time the door is used. The right tools (foam mini-roller plus angled brush) and right sequence (panels first, then flat sections, then edges) produce professional-looking results. Removing the door from its hinges and painting flat is a small extra step that significantly improves the finish. Here is the method.
How do you prep the door?
Preparation determines whether paint lasts. Remove the door from hinges if possible; lets paint self-level horizontally and provides access to top/bottom edges. Lay flat on sawhorses. Remove hardware; label placement for reinstallation. Clean with TSP or Krud Kutter; rinse and dry. Lightly sand with 220-grit; vacuum and tack cloth. Prime bare spots and knot holes. Mask glass inserts. Most doors don't need full sanding if existing paint is intact and a deglosser is used.
How do you paint flat panel doors?
Doors with raised panels: sequence matters. Paint panels first; then horizontal rails; then vertical stiles; finally edges. Apply to one panel at a time with an angled brush; immediately roll out with a foam mini-roller for smooth finish. Brushwork follows the grain or panel direction. For rails/stiles: foam mini-roller for flat surfaces; angled brush for corners. Work paint while wet; don't go back over areas starting to dry. Two coats minimum; three for some colors.
How do you paint flush doors?
Flat doors without panels are simpler. Use a foam mini-roller for the entire face of the door; produces the smoothest finish; minimal brush marks. Apply paint in long even strokes; work in sections of about 1 to 2 feet at a time; immediately re-roll while wet for uniformity. Don't overload the roller; thin coats are better than thick. Two coats minimum; three for some colors and finishes. For edges: angled brush; don't drip onto the just-painted face. For the top and bottom of the door: easier when the door is off hinges; ensures both edges are sealed (important for moisture resistance, especially exterior doors). For interior bedroom doors: matching the wall sheen often works (eggshell or satin); for higher-end look, use semi-gloss specifically for trim and doors. For exterior doors: use exterior-grade paint; weather durability matters significantly.
How do you finish and reinstall?
Final steps. Let the door dry fully before flipping (4 to 8 hours); rushing causes lifting. Two coats each side. Let dry 24 to 48 hours before reinstalling; full cure takes weeks. Clean paint drips from screw holes before reattaching hardware. Doors that won't close because of new paint thickness: light sanding of the latch edge solves it. Avoid full hinge weight immediately; gentle use the first week. Fix drips while paint is fresh (within 24 hours).
Painting a door combines proper prep, the right tools (foam mini-roller plus angled brush), and the right sequence. Removing the door and laying flat dramatically improves finish quality. Interior doors last 5 to 10 years before repainting; exterior doors 3 to 5 years. Don't rush cure time between coats; the difference is visible in the result. Premium door paint (Benjamin Moore Advance, Sherwin-Williams ProClassic) produces noticeably better results than wall paint.
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