How To Install Crown Molding?
QUICK ANSWER
Measure each wall section. Cut crown moldings with mitered or coped joints at corners. Nail through the molding into wall studs and the top plate (where the wall meets the ceiling). The corner cuts are the hardest part; practice on scrap wood before cutting the real molding.
Crown molding adds architectural interest at the ceiling line, making rooms feel finished and more upscale. The installation isn't difficult but the corner cuts (where two pieces meet at the wall corners) take practice. The two corner methods (mitered and coped) each have advantages. Here is the approach plus tips that make first-time installation manageable.
What materials and tools do you need?
Crown molding: wood (pine, oak, poplar) or MDF (medium-density fiberboard, pre-primed, cheaper) in your chosen profile (simple cove, traditional, ornate). Tools: miter saw (compound miter saw makes the angled cuts easier; a basic miter saw works but requires more setup), tape measure, pencil, finish nail gun or hammer with 2-inch finish nails, caulk gun, paintable caulk, wood putty, sandpaper, primer, paint. Optional: coping saw for coped joints, scaffolding or ladder. Material cost: 1 to 5 dollars per linear foot depending on type. A typical 12x12 room needs about 48 linear feet.
How do you make corner cuts?
Two methods for joining two pieces at a wall corner. Mitered corners (easier for beginners): cut each piece at 45 degrees on the miter saw, joined at the corner to form a 90-degree angle. The math: standard inside corner = 45 degrees on each side; outside corner = 45 degrees outward. The challenge: walls are rarely exactly 90 degrees, so mitered cuts often have small gaps. Coped joints (better for inside corners; pro choice): cut one piece square, install on first wall. Cope the second piece by cutting along its profile with a coping saw; the coped end fits over the first piece. Coped joints close gaps even with imperfect walls.
How do you install the molding?
Measure each wall section. Cut the molding for the first wall (with appropriate corner cuts). Hold up to confirm fit before nailing. Position the molding against the wall and ceiling, pressing into the corner where they meet. Nail through the molding into wall studs at the bottom edge (every 16 inches) and into the top plate at the top edge (also every 16 inches; the top plate is the horizontal framing at the top of the wall, behind the drywall). For inside corners with coped joints: install one piece first (square cut on the corner end), then install the adjacent wall piece (coped cut on its corner end fits over the first). Outside corners use mitered cuts.
How do you finish?
Fill nail holes with paintable wood putty, let dry, sand smooth. Caulk along the top and bottom edges; smooth with a wet finger. Caulk small gaps in the corners. Prime unpainted edges. Paint with 1 to 2 coats matching existing trim (semi-gloss white or off-white). Touch up ceiling and walls where they meet the molding. Total project for a 12x12 room: a weekend.
Crown molding installation is approachable for DIYers willing to practice the corner cuts on scrap wood first. Mitered corners are easier to learn but show gaps at imperfect walls. Coped joints are the pro choice for inside corners and close gaps automatically. MDF molding is cheaper and easier to work with than hardwood for first-time projects. With proper caulking and painting, DIY crown molding produces results that look professional and adds significant visual upgrade to any room.
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