How To Install Shiplap?
QUICK ANSWER
Find and mark studs on the wall. Start with a level first board at the bottom and nail through into studs. Stack subsequent boards using the included spacers (or a nickel) between for the gap. Cut openings for outlets and switches with a jigsaw. Caulk and paint after installation.
Shiplap (overlapping horizontal wooden planks creating a tongue-and-groove appearance) became one of the most popular accent wall styles in the 2010s and remains a strong DIY choice. The installation looks intimidating but is actually approachable for first-timers with basic tools. The key is starting level and consistent; small errors compound across the wall. Here is the method for either an accent wall or a whole room.
What kind of shiplap should you use?
Pre-finished shiplap boards (Magnolia Home, Ufp-Edge, various brands at home centers): primed or pre-painted, ready to install; most common DIY choice. Real wood shiplap boards (pine, cedar, or hardwood from lumber yards): traditional look, more work to finish; needs sanding, priming, painting before installation OR after. Plywood ripped into strips (DIY shiplap): cheapest option at about 1 dollar per linear foot; cut 4x8 sheets of 1/2 inch plywood into 6 to 8 inch strips on a table saw. Vinyl or composite shiplap: water-resistant for bathrooms; installation similar to wood. Most homeowners use pre-primed pine shiplap from home centers for the easiest balance of cost and quality.
How do you prepare the wall?
Remove anything attached to the wall (artwork, switch plates, outlet covers). Find and mark all studs with a stud finder; mark a vertical line at each stud from floor to ceiling. Shiplap nails into studs for proper support; nailing into drywall alone won't hold over time. Lay out the room: measure the wall height, plan how many boards fit (with the small gap between each); plan if you'll need a ripped board at the top to finish flush with the ceiling. Check the floor and ceiling are level; if not, the shiplap won't sit level either, and you'll need to compensate by ripping the first board to fit.
How do you install the boards?
Start at the bottom. Measure the first board to length, cut to fit (with a miter saw or circular saw). Place against the wall with the bottom edge against the floor. Use a level to confirm horizontal; if the floor is unlevel, you may need to rip the board to compensate. Nail through the board into each stud with a brad nailer or finish nailer (1.5 to 2 inch nails). Place the next board on top using a spacer (most shiplap comes with a spacer, or use a nickel for the classic 'nickel gap'); nail. Continue stacking up the wall. Cut around outlets and switches with a jigsaw; mark the outlet location before placing the board.
How do you finish?
Fill nail holes with paintable caulk or wood filler. Caulk along the top edge and the corners where shiplap meets adjacent walls. Don't caulk gaps between boards; the gap is the defining feature. Paint with 2 coats of your chosen color. Reinstall outlet covers; you may need slightly longer screws. Total project for a 10x8 foot accent wall: 1 weekend.
Installing shiplap is a manageable weekend DIY project for an accent wall, or a longer project for a full room. Starting level matters more than any other step; small errors compound across the wall. Pre-primed pine shiplap from home centers is the easiest material for first-timers. The nickel-gap technique creates the distinctive shiplap look. With proper finishing (caulk, paint), DIY shiplap looks indistinguishable from professional installation at a fraction of the cost.
More Walls, Windows & Wallpaper Questions
Mystery Question?
Mystery Question?
Mystery Question?