How To Refinish Wood Furniture?
QUICK ANSWER
Strip the old finish with chemical stripper (Citristrip, Klean-Strip) or sand it off. Sand smooth with 80, 120, then 220 grit, working with the grain. Apply pre-stain conditioner, then stain in your chosen color. Finish with 2 to 3 coats of polyurethane, sanding lightly between coats.
Refinishing wood furniture transforms tired pieces into showcase items at a fraction of replacement cost. The process takes a weekend per piece for most furniture and uses inexpensive materials. The key steps are stripping the old finish, sanding smooth, applying new stain or paint, and protecting with a topcoat. Here is the method that produces professional-looking results plus the common mistakes that ruin DIY refinishing projects.
Should you strip or sand?
Two methods to remove the old finish; each has tradeoffs. Chemical stripping (Citristrip, Klean-Strip Premium Stripper): apply with a brush, let dwell per product label (15 to 60 minutes typically), scrape off the softened finish with a putty knife. Pros: works on detailed or carved surfaces sanding can't reach, generally less aggressive than sanding. Cons: chemical fumes, messy, requires gloves and ventilation. Mechanical sanding (sandpaper or power sander): work through grits to remove finish and smooth wood. Pros: no chemicals, faster on flat surfaces, you control depth precisely. Cons: doesn't work well on detailed pieces, lots of dust. Many projects use both: chemical strip first, then sand for final smoothness.
What is the sanding sequence?
Use progressively finer grits to remove material then smooth the surface. Start with 80-grit (or 60-grit if heavy stripping is needed): removes any remaining finish and rough material. Move to 120-grit: smooths out the rougher sanding marks from 80-grit. Finish with 220-grit: produces a smooth surface ready for stain. Always sand with the wood grain, not across it; cross-grain sanding leaves scratches that show through stain. Hand-sand for final smoothing of details; power sanders can leave swirls. Between grits, wipe or vacuum off all dust. The final surface should feel smooth as fine paper to your hand.
How do you stain or paint?
For staining: apply pre-stain wood conditioner (Minwax Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner) to woods prone to blotching (pine, poplar, alder). Wait 5 to 15 minutes per label. Apply stain with a brush, rag, or foam applicator in your chosen color. Let penetrate 5 to 15 minutes; longer for darker color. Wipe off excess with a clean cloth going with the grain. Let dry overnight. For painting: apply a primer formulated for the type of paint (oil-based primer under oil paint, etc.) then 2 coats of furniture paint (chalk paint, milk paint, or interior latex enamel are popular for furniture). Always test colors on a hidden area first.
How do you finish?
Apply a protective topcoat. For stained wood: polyurethane (oil-based for amber tone, water-based for clarity). Apply 2 to 3 thin coats with a brush or foam applicator, sanding lightly between with 220-grit. For painted wood: water-based polycrylic prevents yellowing over light colors. Wax is traditional for chalk paint. Allow full cure (a week or more) before heavy use.
Refinishing wood furniture transforms pieces dramatically with the right approach. Strip and sand to bare wood, choose stain or paint based on the look you want, finish with protective topcoat. Pre-stain conditioner prevents blotching on prone woods. Multiple thin finish coats outperform fewer thick coats. The patience and prep determine the final quality more than the products themselves. With practice, DIY refinishing produces results indistinguishable from professional work at a fraction of the cost.
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